![]() I used eight in this example, and shot a different image for the foreground. It is recommended to make 10-40 images for the stars. Then use an app such as PhotoPills to determine the best exposure for your camera, lens and aperture. I feel these units are needed more for deep space photography than for Milky Way images. There is a lot more gear under your camera which can lead to a less stable platform which adds the possibility of camera shake. You need to line the unit up with Polaris and hope that is correct. I personally haven’t had much luck with this method. Mount a camera on a star tracker and mimic the rotation of the Earth for longer exposure times. How do you get more light to the sensor without trails? One way is to purchase another piece of equipment and learn how to use it. Plus another image processed for the foreground. Algorithm: Mean Min Hor Noise, Adobe Camera Raw as a plugin. Made from 8 light frames by Starry Landscape Stacker 1.8.0.
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